Historical Spotlight: Blue Jeans
Black Americans are known both domestically and internationally for their fashion style. As a whole, we set trends, validate what’s popping, and define pop culture. Worldwide, there are cultures, societies, and people who try to emulate the natural fly style and grace that many Black Americans embody on a daily basis. We’ve always been the ones making things hot, so join me as we shine a Historical Spotlight on just how blue jeans were created.
Before Levi’s and Wrangler became popular blue jean brands, slaves wore jean-like material as durable protection while working in the fields. The denim was referred to as “Negro cloth” and was another symbol that designated a person’s place in society. Denim is traditionally blue because many slaves taught plantation owners to grow indigo in addition to their crop rotation of cotton, tobacco, and rice.
In the early days, the seams of denim overalls and clothing were still susceptible to tears. In the early 1870’s, Jacob Davis, a tailor in Reno, Nevada, used rivets which were useful in repairing saddles, to reinforce the stitching and make jeans even more durable. His business absolutely exploded with customers wanting the new and improved jeans. Unfortunately, he was unable to keep up with the roaring demand, but formed a partnership with Levi Strauss, his San Francisco-based dry goods supplier, and patented the metal reinforcements in 1873.
The Black cowboys who worked to settle the Western Frontier also wore denim to withstand the elements. The material was resistant to ripping while riding horses, guiding steer, wrangling bulls, and protecting settlements against raiders.
Over time, the material has grown in popularity and has evolved to include different cuts like straight, wide, skinny, bootcut, and more. No matter if you prefer a rich dark-blue wash or a super light one, there’s a variation of jean out there for everyone.
Despite the cloth having a great reputation now, there was a long time in history when wearing jeans wasn’t an elite social status. It was saved for lower members of society who primarily toiled with their hands. Socialites weren’t caught dead in denim until famous brands and manufacturers like Ralph Lauren, Levi’s, Wrangler, and others made it cool.
For decades after Levi Strauss started mass producing blue jeans, wealthy white women never wore jeans. Denim didn’t start getting its shine amongst the so-called elite in society until the 1930s when the Great Depression forced struggling farmers to open their properties as exotic dude ranches to tourists. After a while, the jeans sold for these dude ranches started growing in popularity as a fashion trend across the country.
Blue jeans have had a somewhat tumultuous history of being morally and societally unacceptable. Still to this day there are some workplaces that completely ban jeans from the dresscode, while others embrace how casual they are. Back in the 1950s, denim was a calling card of dangerous biker gangs and outlaws, but was also worn by normal teenagers who weren’t up to anything nefarious. Some schools and organizations banned the clothingware while manufacturers and designers created advertising campaigns to get more support.
The next time you reach for your favorite pair of blue jeans, remember the blood, sweat, and tears of the slaves who didn’t have anything softer or more comfortable to choose from all because of white supremacy judging their skin tone. While the dominant society attempts to turn away from their deep, dark truth regarding slavery, it’s important to highlight the contributions to society, inventions, and advancements spearheaded by those who were oppressed that still continue to impact our daily lives.
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Signed,
Jessica Marie
